Common Stove and Oven Problems We Fix

Oven Is Not Heating

This is the most common call we receive. You turn the oven on, the light works, but the inside stays cold. This ruins dinner plans instantly. On electric ovens, it is often a hidden break in the element; on gas ovens, it is frequently an ignition failure.

Likely causes:

• Hidden bake element burned out
• Weak gas igniter (glows but doesn’t light gas)
• Thermal fuse tripped due to overheating
• Control board relay failure
• Loose wire connection
• Incoming power issue (240v vs 120v)

How we diagnose it:

For electric units, we test the resistance of the heating elements and verify voltage at the terminal block. For gas units, we observe the igniter amperage. If the igniter is weak, it won’t open the safety gas valve. We also check the safety thermostat to see if it has cut power to the heating circuit.

What you can do right now:

Check your circuit breaker. Electric ovens require two breakers (or a double pole); if one trips, the lights might work but the heat won’t. If it is gas, check if the top burners work to verify you have gas supply.

Gas Burner Will Not Light

You turn the knob, hear the clicking sound, but no flame appears. This is annoying and can be dangerous if gas is being released without ignition. It often leads to the smell of unburned gas in the kitchen.

Likely causes:

• Clogged burner portholes from spills
• Cracked or dirty spark electrode
• Failed spark module
• Moisture in the burner assembly
• Ignition switch on the valve shaft broken

How we diagnose it:

We visually inspect the ceramic electrode for cracks. We test the spark module to ensure it sends high voltage to the burner. We also remove the burner cap to check for grease or food debris blocking the gas flow to the igniter area.

What you can do right now:

Lift the burner cap and look for debris. Clean the area gently with a toothbrush. If you recently cleaned the stove with a lot of water, let it dry out for a few hours, as moisture can short the spark.

Oven Temperature Is Incorrect

If your cookies are burning on the bottom or your roast is raw in the middle, your oven calibration is likely off. Over time, temperature sensors can drift, or the control board might misinterpret the signal.

Likely causes:

• Failed or drifting temperature sensor (probe)
• Control board calibration error
• Blocked airflow in the oven cavity
• Door gasket leaking heat
• Convection fan not circulating air

How we diagnose it:

We use a professional digital thermometer to measure the actual internal temperature over several cycles. We compare this to the set point. We test the resistance of the oven sensor at room temperature to see if it is within factory specs. We also check the door seal for gaps.

What you can do right now:

Make sure you are not covering the oven racks with aluminum foil, as this blocks airflow and throws off the thermostat. Check the rubber seal around the door for tears.

Glass Cooktop Is Cracked or Not Heating

Glass ceramic cooktops are sleek but fragile. A heavy pot dropped on the surface can cause a crack. Additionally, the ribbon elements underneath can burn out, leaving a cold spot on the burner.

Likely causes:

• Impact damage from heavy cookware
• Burnt out ribbon element
• Infinite switch failure
• Loose connection at the terminal block
• Limiter switch failure

How we diagnose it:

We test the continuity of the element loops. If the element is good, we test the infinite switch (the knob) to see if it is regulating power correctly. For cracks, the only safe repair is replacing the glass assembly, as moisture can seep through and cause an electrical hazard.

What you can do right now:

If the glass is cracked, stop using the stove immediately. Liquid can get into the high voltage electronics. If a burner isn’t heating, try a different pot to ensure it isn’t an induction compatibility issue (if you have induction).

Oven Door Won’t Open or Close

A door that won’t close leaks heat and wastes energy. A door that won’t open, often after a self cleaning cycle, traps your food or makes the oven unusable. This is usually a mechanical issue with the hinges or lock.

Likely causes:

• Bent door hinges
• Broken door springs
• Lock motor seized in the locked position
• Misaligned door liner
• Control board stuck in “lock” mode

How we diagnose it:

We inspect the hinge receivers and springs. For locked doors, we access the lock motor manually to release it. We test the microswitches on the lock assembly to see if they are telling the board the wrong information.

What you can do right now:

If stuck locked, try running the self clean cycle for one minute and then canceling it; this sometimes resets the motor. Do not force the door open, as you will break the glass or the latch.

Self Cleaning Cycle Problems

We often advise caution with self cleaning features, especially on older ovens, as the extreme heat can damage components. However, if you use it and it fails, it can leave the oven dead or locked.

Likely causes:

• Thermal fuse blown from high heat
• Door lock latch failure
• Control board overheat
• Temperature sensor failure

How we diagnose it:

We check the safety thermostats first, as these are designed to cut power if the oven gets too hot. We inspect the door lock mechanism to ensure it engages properly before the cycle starts.

What you can do right now:

If the oven went dead during a clean cycle, it is likely a safety fuse. This is a non-resetting part and requires service. Avoid using the self clean function before big holiday meals to prevent breakdowns.

Oven Light Is Out or Won’t Turn Off

While it seems minor, an oven light is essential for monitoring food without opening the door. Conversely, a light that won’t turn off can melt the plastic lens and waste energy.

Likely causes:

• Bulb burned out
• Door switch stuck
• Socket corrosion
• Control board relay stuck closed

How we diagnose it:

We test the socket for voltage. If the light stays on, we test the plunger switch on the door frame to see if it is mechanically stuck or electrically shorted.

What you can do right now:

Replace the bulb with an appliance rated bulb. If the light stays on, wiggle the plunger switch on the door frame to see if it releases.

Smell of Gas

A faint smell of gas when lighting a burner is normal, but a persistent smell while cooking or when the unit is off is a serious issue.

Likely causes:

• Leaking gas valve
• Igniter taking too long to light
• Loose connection at the pressure regulator
• Burner not lighting fully (delayed ignition)

How we diagnose it:

We use an electronic combustible gas detector to sniff for leaks around the regulator, valves, and rear connections. We observe the ignition time; if it takes more than a few seconds, unburned gas is escaping.

What you can do right now:

If you smell gas strongly, turn off the main gas valve to the appliance, open windows, and leave the area. Contact us or your utility company immediately. Do not turn light switches on or off.